Wave heightis the vertical distance from the trough to the crest and is determined by wave energy. To see wave movement in action, watch a cork or some floating object as a wave passes.Īspects of water waves, labeled.Important terms to understand in the operation of waves include: the wave crest is the highest point of the wave the trough is the lowest point of the wave. As the wave trough passes, the water is moving backward. As the wave crest passes, the water is moving forward. Waves move as individual oscillating particles of water. The energy transferred from wind to water causes waves to form. Particle motion within a wind-blown wave.Wind blowing over the surface of water transfers energy to the water through friction. To understand the processes that occur at these boundaries, it is important to first understand wave energy. Coastlines are the interfaces between, and as such, the longest visible boundaries on Earth. The Earth’s surface is 29% land and 71% water. Explain how ocean tides occur and distinguish among diurnal, semidiurnal, and mixed tide patterns.Describe the pattern of the main ocean currents and explain the different factors involved in surface currents and deep ocean currents.Describe the relationship between the natural river of sand in the littoral zone and human attempts to alter it for human convenience.Distinguish between submergent and emergent coasts and describe coastal features associated with each.Explain how longshore currents cause the formation of spits and baymouth bars.Describe wave refraction and its contribution to longshore currents and longshore drift.Explain wave behavior approaching the shoreline. Describe how waves occur, move, and carry energy.12 Coastlinesīy the end of this chapter, students should be able to: Because of the narrow Gulf of California, Puerto Peñasco has one of the largest tidal ranges in western North America. Sunset over the coastline of Puerto Peñasco, México.
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